We were tired after the long flight, of course. So we were the last to pick up our bags, because Susan didn't recognize hers as it went round and round. (I couldn't say anything because I did the same thing in Paris.)

When we finally got out of baggage collection, a charming man called us by name, seeing as how everyone else had gone. He was a perfect transport driver, describing the culture, taking us out of the way to see things, and entertaining us with his opinions ("They could have renovated this beautiful building for the new parliament instead of building that monstrosity.")

When Susan tried to give him a tip he said, "Don't be daft!"

One of the things I remember him telling us was that originally every room had a peat-burning fireplace, hence the many chimneys all around us.